(Written on June 25th by Devri)
We woke up in Scotland. The place of my ancestors. The place I’ve dreamed of for years. I know I have ancestors from various places throughout Europe, but I know the family name of the ones from Scotland: Campbell. Every so often, the pedigree chart showing my Campbell heritage would be brought out, our coat of arms and plaid beautifully displayed next to all the generations of ancestors, and I would feel a thrill, knowing I belonged to something that went back so far to so many important people and things. I would watch Gene Kelly in Brigadoon and be so proud to see the Campbells march in for Jean’s wedding-they were my people, and that green and blue tartan was by far the best looking one out there.
So, when we decided to go to Europe, I knew that this time, we had to go to Scotland. There was nothing in particular that I wanted to see—no famous buildings, no major works of art, and no city with a big pull—I just wanted to see the land of my ancestors. Unfortunately, it only worked out to spend one day in Scotland as part of our cruise, but I wanted to make the most of it.
Greenock was our Scotland Port of Call, which is really close to Glasgow. I looked through all the excursions that Carnival offered, and I found one that would take us to Loch Lomond and Inverary Castle, home of the Duke of Argyle, head of Clan Campbell. I was so excited, and thankfully, Brian was good with my choice. It was the first excursion we booked for our cruise.
So, now when I say “we woke up in Scotland,” you can perhaps get a feel for how incredibly exhilarating that statement is for me. I was finally there.
We got ready, grabbed breakfast, and waited for our bus number to be called, and then we headed off the boat. Our guide was this little white haired Scottish lady who is younger than you might expect a white haired lady to be. She walked us through where we were headed and told us things about Scotland, but I don’t remember much of what she said other than, “We’re now leaving the Lowlands and entering what is known as the Highlands."
We wandered in our bus through the beautiful hills, mountains, and valleys of the Highlands until we got to Loch Lomond. After spending a brief time in a shop, we headed to the famous lake. The kids enjoyed trying to skip rocks in the water and I just tried to take it all in. There was the lake from the Song: Oh ye’ll take the high road and I’ll take the low road, and I’ll be in Scotland ‘afore ye, but me and my true love will never meet again on the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond.” They all stopped skipping rocks to pose for pictures with me along the “bonnie banks” with the real Ben Lomond (the one in Ogden’s namesake) looking on.
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| Loch Lomond |
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| Ben Lomond in the distance |
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| The Bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond |
All too soon, it was time to head back to the bus. We walked through the old, quaint town [Luss, Scotland] on the way and marveled at the charming buildings. Our bus driver led us around Loch Lomond and our guide played a sweet version of the Song as we we wound our way through the winding roads to the next valley, the next loch.
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| Luss, Scotland |
As we drove along, our guide told us a little about Scotland’s troubles with England over the years, and about how after the Battle of Culloden, the Highlands were cleared out and the people forbidden from wearing the plaid and speaking the language. My heart hurt as she pointed out the ruins from some of the homes the Scottish people were forced to abandon as the British tried to destroy their culture.
The drive was beautiful; I could not look away. Waterfalls. Sheep. Even a highland cow.
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| Scottish Highlands |
We finally arrived in Inverary, and since we were a few minutes early, our bus took us down the Main Street of Inverary before taking us to Inverary Castle. Our family of five sat in the very back row of the bus because we could all sit by each other, and the more stops we made, the more frustrated I got with the people at the front of the bus because they were so slow getting off. Because of this, we didn’t have time to even take a picture of all of us in front of that castle before we had to hurry and catch up to our guide. I was pretty bummed about that, as you can tell.
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| Inverary Castle, home of the Duke of Argyll, head of Clan Campbell |
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| Only had time for a quick selfie, which Rachel caught a picture of |
We queued up to enter the castle, and our guide explained things in the dining room and the drawing room, and by the time she finished with those rooms, we got to explore on our own. We took a quick look upstairs to see a few of the rooms, including the one that is said be haunted, and then we went downstairs to see the kitchens and then the gift shop, where I wanted to buy everything (because so much of it was in the Campbell tartan!)
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| State Dining Room |
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| Ceiling of the dining room |
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| Chandelier and painting of John Campbell, 4th Duke of Argyll |
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| Elaborate paneling and plasterwork in the dining room, fake footman wearing House of Argyll livery, and golden ship |
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| Tapestry Drawing room |
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| Armoury Hall: A collection of 16th and 17th century pole-arms, roundels of Brown Bess muskets from ~1740, spandrels of muskets alternated with Lochaber axes from around 1847, and 18th century broadswords |
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| Bronze Sculpture of Robert the Bruce on horseback by Princess Louise, 4th daughter of Queen Victoria and the wife of the 9th Duke of Argyll |
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| The crest with the initials of the current Duke (Torquhil) and Duchess (Eleanor Cadbury) of Argyll |
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| The crest, but zoomed out |
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| Dresses worn by the Campbells in the MacArthur Room |
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| The MacArthur room, which is apparently haunted by a young Irish harpist who was murdered on this bed |
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| Shield motif of Dukes of Argyll in fabric form |
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| A history of Clan Campbell |
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| The old kitchen |
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| Information about Clan Campbell, including the various tartans, the clan bird (magpie), and some family crests/seals |
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| Hat with the Campbell Tartan |
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| Farewell, Inverary Castle |
All too soon, we had to be back on the bus, and then we drove down to Inverary, where we waited for 5 minutes to get off the bus. (I felt a little better when another couple who was back in the bus complained about it too). We went to a very Scottish looking pub for lunch—The George—and I ordered a very Scottish meal of beef pie, Michael got the haddock, and we ordered a small plate of haggis with neeps and tatties. Haggis is very Scottish-it’s made up of a sheep’s pluck—the heart, liver, and lungs—oatmeal, suet, onions and spices. neeps and tatties are mashed potatoes and turnips. It sounded so gross, but it was very good. Brian and Rachel got Mac and cheese (which Brian said was really, really good), and Gabe got bread, ham, and cheese with grapes and fries, which, aside from the fries, he barely touched.
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| In a Scottish Pub in Inverary |
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Our table was just a little bit quite bowed |
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Our table was just a little bit quite bowed |
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| Beef Pie for me and Mac & Cheese for Brian |
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| Mac & Cheese |
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| Haddock |
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| Small serving of Haggis with neeps and tatties |
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| Inverary, Scotland |
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| The George, Scottish pub where we ate lunch |
After dinner, we strolled down the streets, entering different shops where we found more things to take home. All too soon, we had to head back to the bus, but not before taking a few more pictures in front of the Loch at the edge of town.
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| Loch Fyne, Inverary, Scotland |
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| Last glimpse of Inverary Castle from the bus |
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| Inverary Castle |
We made our way back around the loch near Inverary, and then took a different way back to Greenock, which involved a ferry ride across the Firth of Clyde. It was incredibly windy, but invigorating to get out of the bus to view the water as we crossed.
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| Ferry across the Firth of Clyde |
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| The Firth of Clyde |
We were cold and wind-blown, but I wouldn’t trade our day for a day at a beach. It was just glorious.
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| Brian and my towel animal |
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| The kids' towel animal |
I was sad to leave our tour bus and get back on the ship, and sadder still to sail away from Scotland.
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| Dramatic Farewell to Scotland |
I kept thinking of John Denver’s song, “Rocky Mountain High” where he says, “coming home to a place he’s never been before.” That’s how it felt being in Scotland and driving around the lochs of the western Highlands. Somehow, it felt like home, like a part of me belongs there.
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